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I’ve just returned from following the first few days of the Dakar Rally
that started in Lisbon, Portugal, then wound its way south to Portimao then
east into Malaga, Spain, where it crossed by ferry to Africa continuing its
journey all the way to Dakar. It felt so good to get out of Paris – where
I’ve been living for the past six weeks – and feel the adrenalin run through my
veins once again as each adventurous day unfolded.
2006 Dakar
moto winner Marc Coma blasts out of a cold river crossing during the first stage.
Before departing Paris I had
tried to secure myself a ride all the way to Dakar
as a photo journalist, but unless a team offers you a position and covers the
8000 Euro entry (which gets you all the way into and through Africa)
you have to pay yourself, and that kind of money I don’t have. So my other
option was to catch up with my Aussie mates competing in the Dakar, Mark Eland
(Rider) and Richard Mayfield (Mechanic) on the European leg only. Mark had
mentioned I could sleep on their motel room floor if need be so with my
sleeping bag packed I arrived in Lisbon
two days before the official start of the Rally. I didn’t have a clue where in Lisbon
the start was but I figured an event that big wouldn’t be too hard to find.
Rich all smiles as the Rally Raid team prepare for the big race.
One 20-minute bus
ride and a 10-minute tram ride, thanks to some directions from a local, saw me
arrive in front of this amazing 16th century castle-like building
named Jeronimos Monastry, where the race started. I found the accreditation
centre and signed in. They gave me a green arm band that allowed me to check
out the pit area, and ah, that’s about it, but it did prove handy later on in
the journey on stage two, more about that later. After getting that out of the
way I asked directions to the motel the boys were staying at and decided to
walk the five kilometers to stretch my legs and to also get a feel for the
city. Lisbon
has a great feel. I think the reason for this is the people are so friendly
compared to Paris.
They are happy to talk to you in English and stopping to give you directions is
too easy for them, which made my life easier finding the motel. It was around
9.30PM when I arrived in the foyer and I was very happy when Mark answered my
call from reception and invited me straight up. They were both flogged from
long days preparing Marks KTM660 Rally and the stress of getting through
scrutineering, which I now understand is one of the hardest tests of the rally
for privateers like Mark with minimal budget and time on their side.
Nether-the-less they scraped through OK and at that point the reality of what
laid ahead for Mark was quickly sinking in.
Jeronimos Monastry makes for the
perfect backdrop.
Securing my first nights accommodation was the easy part, next I had to
find someone who was willing to give me a lift to where the special stages took
place during the European leg of the Dakar.
I decided to hang around the foyer the next morning where hundreds of crew,
riders, drivers, all wearing their team jackets rushed around like ants,
talking, plotting, drinking, eating, in preparation for the big event. Then I
got talking to the crew from Rally Raid, which is a UK
support outfit that supplies all that you need to enter a race such as the Dakar. Mark was using
them for the second time so he introduced me to a few of the fella’s. And as it
so perfectly turned out, Paul Green, a pommy bloke who was taking a year off
from driving the rally came along to hang with some of his mates from Rally
Raid and check out the first few days. Paul was by himself so when I asked if I
could tag along he was totally cool with the idea, saying the company would be
great. With that locked in I left the foyer quick smart and headed towards the
pit area to see if I could locate another Aussie rider by the name of
Christophe Barriere-Varju.
Christophe right and Max make the last touches to the KTM 660 Rally
before scrutineering.
It wasn’t hard. Christophe and his mechanic, Max Sullivan, were working like
mad trying to get the bike together in time for final scrutineering, as were a
line of around 70 other privateers. I poked my nose in for a few minutes but
could tell straight away it was best to leave them be until the stress of
getting the job done was over. There was plenty of cool stuff to check out like
other bikes, rally cars, trucks etc so that’s what I did for the remainder of
the day. The first thing that struck me wondering the pit area was the cost to
partake in the Dakar.
For a privateer bike rider its around a minimum 70,000 Euros, 120,000 Aus to
compete, and for Tom Classen from South Africa it costs around 500,000 Ran as
their dollar is so weak. I was also told minimum cost to enter a car starts
around the 200,000 Euro mark, and the VW Factory team spent 30 million Euro to
field their whole team in 2007. There’s around 250 bikes, 170 cars and 80 odd
trucks entered so once you start doing some sums it definitely adds up to being
the richest rally in the world bar none.
And these are only the support trucks...
Chasing Some Action
Africa is where the real Dakar
starts. In Europe the stages are short and the
transfer sections are long. Our hope, leaving Lisbon at 6.30 in the morning, of making one
of the allocated viewing area’s for the first stage by nine flew out the window
when we met with what seemed like every Portuguese car owner on the main highway
south. They had the same idea as us and with thick fog covering the highway
many pile-ups were assured as brake-lights appeared out of nowhere while the
thick flow of traffic screamed along at over 100kph. The hours ticked by as we
crawled along bumper to bumper avoiding the carnage caused by many gnarly
rear-enders. We were lucky to avoid such drama, but when the clock struck nine
and we were still 20km from the viewing stage in stopped traffic we knew our
first day of witnessing some action was over. We decided to turn around and
head to Portimao to watch the competitors arrive, which was some consolation to
a drama-filled morning. Paul, driving his renta-car made the trip in to
Portimao fun by following one of the support trucks closely along the sectioned-off
lanes for Dakar
competitors only. “Stick that arm band out the window so the cops can see it as
we pass Goba”, he said, as we ignored every arm-waving attempt to stop us at
every junction or roundabout. We had a good old laugh at their expense and arrived
at the finish quicker than most. The next 7 hours was spent hanging in the pit
area watching the teams frantically make any repairs to bikes, cars and trucks
needed before resting them in Parc Fermat where they stayed the night under the
watchful eye of security.
Marc Coma left talks to his team mate Viladoms Jordi after the end of
stage one.
The following morning we decided to head off two hours earlier at 4.30
to make sure we missed any traffic jams. There was no way we were coming this
far without seeing at least one day of action. We found our parking spot by the
side of the road before it was closed and slept with the seats reclined until
eight. At around 9.20 the 00 bike rode through as we nestled into a sweet spot
by a small river crossing. 15 minutes later the roar of the first 660 Rally
came screaming through and for the next 4 hours or so I was firing off shots of
some pretty wicked action. I guess you could say that moment was the highlight
of my 5 days in Portugal,
the rest of my time was spent finding my way back to Paris. Thanks for the ride Paul, and thanks
to Mark for putting me up on his motel room floor. I’ll have a more detailed
story on what it takes for our Aussie riders to partake in the Dakar in an upcoming issue of TBAM, until
then check out some of the pics I took below.
The large Portugese crowd offered nearly as much entertainment as the
riders
They were always quick to jump in to help.
As the sun came up the conditions crossing the river became harder for the competitors.
The first group of cars came through at lightning speeds and sounded awesome.
USA entrant Robbie Gordan hums along in his massive Hummer.
This fella went in a bit hot and paid the price.
Christophe’s trick helmet painted by Brownie from Brown’s Graffix.
A tricked up Yamaha WRF450 Dakar style.
KTM’s 525EXC looked like one of the perfect machines for the Dakar. Nice and lite compared to the 660 for when it comes to the dunes.
This Honda CRF450 looked the goods too.
Marc Coma’s cockpit.
Mark comes in from the first stage with some damage after dropping it a few times on what he said was some of the toughest sand riding he’s ever done.
Pommy/Aussie Mike Hughes talks to Rich about his first day, also saying it was the hardest opening stage of the Dakar he’s ever experienced.
How trick is this bike stand.
I think these guys broke an axle and had to work into the night like many others.
Some of the privateers did it real tough.
The bikes wait nervously in Parc Fermat.
Not a good end to his river crossing.
Cyril Despres shows how its down with style.
And the backdrop in Portimao was beautiful…
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